From Luxury to Local: A Pastry Chef's Journey to the Heart of Hawker Culture
January 17, 2025, 4:26 am
In the bustling heart of Singapore, a culinary revolution is quietly unfolding. At Amoy Street Food Centre, a hawker stall named Petite Krumbs is redefining the local food scene. Here, Winnie Goh, a former executive pastry chef at prestigious hotels, is crafting exquisite French pastries that stand out in a sea of traditional hawker fare. This is not just a story about food; it’s a tale of resilience, reinvention, and the pursuit of passion.
Winnie Goh, 64, is a name that resonates in the culinary world. With decades of experience under her belt, she has danced with the elite of the pastry realm. After years of orchestrating teams in five-star hotels, she now finds herself in a cramped stall, surrounded by the vibrant chaos of hawker culture. It’s a world away from the polished kitchens of luxury hotels, yet here, she feels a renewed sense of purpose.
Petite Krumbs is a treasure trove of French delights. Caneles, croissants, and pain au chocolat share space with local favorites like pandan chiffon cake. Each pastry is a testament to Goh’s expertise, showcasing her ability to blend French techniques with local flavors. The display case, filled with her creations, could easily belong in a high-end bakery, yet it thrives in the unpretentious environment of a hawker centre.
Goh’s journey to this point was not without its challenges. After being laid off during the rebranding of Mandarin Orchard to Hilton Singapore, she faced a crossroads. Many would have sought refuge in another hotel, but Goh chose a different path. She turned her back on multiple offers to embrace the hawker life. For her, it was about trying something new, a chance to reconnect with her craft on a personal level.
The transition was not easy. Goh took a significant pay cut, roughly 50%, but she embraced the change with open arms. The joy of creating pastries that bring smiles to her customers outweighed the financial sacrifice. Each morning, she rises at 5:30 AM, ready to bake and serve. It’s a solitary endeavor, a stark contrast to her previous role where she led a team. Yet, this independence invigorates her spirit.
Petite Krumbs operates under the NEA’s Incubation Stall Programme, allowing Goh to keep her initial investment low. With less than S$10,000 (about US$7,300), she opened her stall, aiming to provide quality pastries at economical prices. This philosophy is evident in her pricing strategy. Most items are under S$5, a rarity for such high-quality baked goods. Goh believes in making her pastries accessible, using premium ingredients without the premium price tag.
Her pastries are limited in quantity, adding an element of exclusivity. Each day, Goh bakes only 10 to 20 pieces of each item, creating a sense of anticipation among her customers. It’s akin to an omakase experience; she decides what to make based on her mood and the sales from the previous day. This flexibility allows her to keep her offerings fresh and exciting.
Among her best-sellers are the Sourdough Cinnamon Bun and Sourdough Egg Tarts. The cinnamon bun is a delightful blend of fluffy texture and nutty crumble, while the egg tart boasts a creamy filling that melts in your mouth. Each bite is a reminder of Goh’s dedication to her craft.
Despite the challenges of working in a non-air-conditioned environment, Goh has mastered the art of baking delicate pastries. The breezy atmosphere and a small fan create a manageable workspace. She insists that organization is key, and her experience allows her to adapt to the conditions. The use of high-quality ingredients, like French butter, remains non-negotiable. Goh is committed to maintaining the integrity of her recipes, even if it means adjusting some components to keep prices reasonable.
The canele, a signature item, showcases her skill. With a crispy exterior and a custardy interior, it’s a labor of love. Goh occasionally experiments with flavors, using different spirits to enhance the taste. Each canele tells a story, a blend of tradition and innovation.
Goh’s approach to business is refreshingly simple. She has no desire to expand into a larger bakery or café. The overhead costs and staffing issues that come with such ventures are daunting. Instead, she finds fulfillment in her small operation, where she can maintain control and creativity. Her stall is a reflection of her values—quality, accessibility, and joy.
As the sun sets on Amoy Street, Petite Krumbs continues to draw in crowds. Office workers from the CBD flock to her stall, eager to indulge in her creations. Goh’s passion is palpable, and her commitment to her craft shines through in every pastry. She has transformed her setback into a stepping stone, proving that sometimes, the most rewarding paths are the ones less traveled.
In a world where culinary trends come and go, Winnie Goh stands as a beacon of resilience. Her journey from luxury to local is a reminder that passion knows no bounds. At Petite Krumbs, every pastry is a celebration of life, a testament to the beauty of reinvention. In the heart of Singapore’s hawker culture, Goh has found her true calling, one pastry at a time.
Winnie Goh, 64, is a name that resonates in the culinary world. With decades of experience under her belt, she has danced with the elite of the pastry realm. After years of orchestrating teams in five-star hotels, she now finds herself in a cramped stall, surrounded by the vibrant chaos of hawker culture. It’s a world away from the polished kitchens of luxury hotels, yet here, she feels a renewed sense of purpose.
Petite Krumbs is a treasure trove of French delights. Caneles, croissants, and pain au chocolat share space with local favorites like pandan chiffon cake. Each pastry is a testament to Goh’s expertise, showcasing her ability to blend French techniques with local flavors. The display case, filled with her creations, could easily belong in a high-end bakery, yet it thrives in the unpretentious environment of a hawker centre.
Goh’s journey to this point was not without its challenges. After being laid off during the rebranding of Mandarin Orchard to Hilton Singapore, she faced a crossroads. Many would have sought refuge in another hotel, but Goh chose a different path. She turned her back on multiple offers to embrace the hawker life. For her, it was about trying something new, a chance to reconnect with her craft on a personal level.
The transition was not easy. Goh took a significant pay cut, roughly 50%, but she embraced the change with open arms. The joy of creating pastries that bring smiles to her customers outweighed the financial sacrifice. Each morning, she rises at 5:30 AM, ready to bake and serve. It’s a solitary endeavor, a stark contrast to her previous role where she led a team. Yet, this independence invigorates her spirit.
Petite Krumbs operates under the NEA’s Incubation Stall Programme, allowing Goh to keep her initial investment low. With less than S$10,000 (about US$7,300), she opened her stall, aiming to provide quality pastries at economical prices. This philosophy is evident in her pricing strategy. Most items are under S$5, a rarity for such high-quality baked goods. Goh believes in making her pastries accessible, using premium ingredients without the premium price tag.
Her pastries are limited in quantity, adding an element of exclusivity. Each day, Goh bakes only 10 to 20 pieces of each item, creating a sense of anticipation among her customers. It’s akin to an omakase experience; she decides what to make based on her mood and the sales from the previous day. This flexibility allows her to keep her offerings fresh and exciting.
Among her best-sellers are the Sourdough Cinnamon Bun and Sourdough Egg Tarts. The cinnamon bun is a delightful blend of fluffy texture and nutty crumble, while the egg tart boasts a creamy filling that melts in your mouth. Each bite is a reminder of Goh’s dedication to her craft.
Despite the challenges of working in a non-air-conditioned environment, Goh has mastered the art of baking delicate pastries. The breezy atmosphere and a small fan create a manageable workspace. She insists that organization is key, and her experience allows her to adapt to the conditions. The use of high-quality ingredients, like French butter, remains non-negotiable. Goh is committed to maintaining the integrity of her recipes, even if it means adjusting some components to keep prices reasonable.
The canele, a signature item, showcases her skill. With a crispy exterior and a custardy interior, it’s a labor of love. Goh occasionally experiments with flavors, using different spirits to enhance the taste. Each canele tells a story, a blend of tradition and innovation.
Goh’s approach to business is refreshingly simple. She has no desire to expand into a larger bakery or café. The overhead costs and staffing issues that come with such ventures are daunting. Instead, she finds fulfillment in her small operation, where she can maintain control and creativity. Her stall is a reflection of her values—quality, accessibility, and joy.
As the sun sets on Amoy Street, Petite Krumbs continues to draw in crowds. Office workers from the CBD flock to her stall, eager to indulge in her creations. Goh’s passion is palpable, and her commitment to her craft shines through in every pastry. She has transformed her setback into a stepping stone, proving that sometimes, the most rewarding paths are the ones less traveled.
In a world where culinary trends come and go, Winnie Goh stands as a beacon of resilience. Her journey from luxury to local is a reminder that passion knows no bounds. At Petite Krumbs, every pastry is a celebration of life, a testament to the beauty of reinvention. In the heart of Singapore’s hawker culture, Goh has found her true calling, one pastry at a time.