Nike and Burberry: A Tale of Two Giants in Crisis

January 10, 2025, 4:24 am
Bloomberg CityLab
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In the world of fashion and sportswear, giants can stumble. Nike and Burberry, once titans of their industries, now find themselves at crossroads. Both brands are grappling with leadership changes, market pressures, and shifting consumer preferences. The stakes are high, and the path forward is fraught with challenges.

Nike recently made headlines by parting ways with CEO John Donahoe. The company replaced him with Elliott Hill, a veteran who knows the brand inside and out. Hill’s return is a beacon of hope for a company that has seen its stock plummet by 25% this year. The once-mighty sportswear titan is facing fierce competition from upstarts and established rivals alike. Adidas, led by the nimble Bjorn Gulden, is nipping at Nike’s heels.

The roots of Nike’s troubles run deep. Donahoe’s strategy aimed to transform Nike into a tech-savvy luxury brand. Initially, this approach bore fruit. In June 2021, shares soared to record highs, and the company projected sales would exceed $50 billion. But the strategy faltered. By prioritizing its own channels and cutting back on retail partnerships, Nike left shelves bare. Competitors like Adidas and New Balance seized the opportunity.

Fashion trends also shifted. The chunky basketball sneakers that once ruled the market fell out of favor. Lower-rise retro styles, like Adidas’ Samba, took center stage. Nike has a treasure trove of classic designs, yet it struggled to pivot quickly. Hill’s immediate task is clear: reignite the sneaker factory and reconnect with athletes. The running category, in particular, has seen Nike lose ground to brands like On and Hoka.

Hill’s familiarity with Nike’s culture could be his greatest asset. He needs to inspire a workforce that has seen too many departures. Fresh designs are essential. Nike must adopt a faster product development cycle, akin to Zara’s approach. The company can’t afford to rely on a few franchises.

Rebuilding relationships with retailers is also crucial. Nike sells to a broad demographic, not just sneaker enthusiasts. The rehiring of Tom Peddie, a seasoned executive, signals a commitment to this effort. Hill must also revive Nike’s marketing prowess. The brand’s allure has dimmed, and partnerships with leading designers have dwindled.

The road ahead is long. It takes time to bring new products to market. Meanwhile, Adidas shows no signs of slowing down. The sportswear landscape is more fragmented than ever. Hill must reset expectations and confront the reality of the situation. Initial stock relief may be fleeting. Nike’s new slogan, “Winning Isn’t for Everyone,” reflects the urgency of the moment. The company can’t afford another misstep.

Across the pond, Burberry faces its own crisis. Once a darling of the fashion world, the brand has issued three profit warnings and recently parted ways with CEO Jonathan Akeroyd. Its shares are trading at a 15-year low, and the company has been ejected from the FTSE 100 index. The glamour of last year’s London Fashion Week feels like a distant memory.

Under Akeroyd, Burberry aspired to be the British LVMH. Now, with new CEO Josh Schulman at the helm, the brand may pivot towards a more accessible luxury model, reminiscent of Ralph Lauren. Schulman’s recent fashion show hinted at a return to Burberry’s roots—coats and jackets, particularly the iconic trenchcoat. This focus could help Burberry compete with high-end brands like Moncler, but it also poses risks.

The runway featured fewer bags, signaling a shift in strategy. Schulman aims to balance high fashion with more affordable options, but this could confuse consumers. The challenge lies in selling premium products without diluting the brand’s luxury image. Burberry’s reliance on Chinese consumers, who accounted for 40% of sales pre-pandemic, adds another layer of complexity.

Creative director Daniel Lee’s future is uncertain. A less luxurious Burberry may not align with his vision. Yet, there’s a glimmer of hope. The resurgence of Britpop, particularly the reunion of Oasis, could reignite interest in the brand. Liam Gallagher’s iconic style and the #Britishcore trend on TikTok present an opportunity for Burberry to reconnect with its heritage.

Collaborating with the Gallagher brothers could be a strategic move. Burberry needs buzz, and embracing its British roots could be the key. If these efforts falter, a takeover may be the only lifeline. Tapestry, which is currently navigating its own acquisition challenges, could be a potential buyer. Private equity firms might also see value in revamping Burberry away from public scrutiny.

In conclusion, both Nike and Burberry are at pivotal moments. They must navigate turbulent waters to reclaim their positions. For Nike, it’s about innovation and reconnecting with consumers. For Burberry, it’s a return to roots and embracing heritage. The future is uncertain, but both brands have the potential to rise again. The giants may stumble, but they can still soar.