The Return of Willin Low: A Culinary Comeback with Pastaro

August 29, 2024, 12:35 am
8 Days Singapore

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Location: Singapore
In the bustling culinary landscape of Singapore, change is the only constant. Chef Willin Low, a name synonymous with modern Singaporean cuisine, has made a bold return to the scene with his new venture, Pastaro. This handmade pasta bar, nestled above a Cold Storage supermarket, is more than just a restaurant; it’s a testament to resilience, creativity, and the enduring spirit of a chef who refuses to fade into the background.

Low, often hailed as the godfather of modern Singaporean cuisine, has weathered storms that would sink lesser chefs. The COVID-19 pandemic was a formidable adversary, forcing him to shutter beloved establishments like Relish and Five &2. Yet, instead of retreating, he chose to explore the world, drawing inspiration from exotic locales like Kenya and New Zealand. His travels were not just a respite; they were a canvas for new ideas.

Pastaro is a reflection of this journey. Opened just two weeks ago, it is a cozy 40-seater that feels like a hidden gem. The interior, adorned in warm, earthy tones, invites diners to escape the chaos of the outside world. The design, with wood strips crisscrossing the ceiling, evokes the very essence of pasta. It’s a space that whispers comfort and familiarity, a place where patrons can leave their worries at the door.

The menu at Pastaro is a delightful fusion of tradition and innovation. Each dish tells a story, blending local flavors with Italian techniques. The Buah Keluak Spaghetti, for instance, is a nod to Singapore’s culinary heritage, while the Carbonara Fettuccine features a twist of fried pork lard, adding a crispy richness that elevates the classic dish. This is not just food; it’s a narrative of Low’s culinary evolution.

Low’s decision to open Pastaro was driven by a desire to retain his talented staff, many of whom have been with him since the inception of Wild Rocket in 2005. This loyalty is rare in the fast-paced restaurant industry, and it speaks volumes about Low’s leadership and vision. He views his team not just as employees but as partners in a shared journey. This philosophy is evident in the way he operates; his investors are his staff, and together they navigate the unpredictable waters of the restaurant business.

The location of Pastaro adds to its charm. Tucked away on the second floor of Chancery Court, it requires a bit of effort to find, making it feel like a secret hideaway. This obscurity, however, only enhances its allure. Diners are rewarded with a unique experience that feels personal and intimate. The tall windows offer a glimpse into the bustling grocery aisles below, creating a juxtaposition of everyday life and culinary artistry.

The menu is concise yet impactful. Each dish is crafted with care, using fresh, handmade pasta. The Singapore Fried Noodles, a playful take on Hokkien mee, showcases Low’s ability to reinterpret local favorites. The Lion Spaghettini, featuring locally sourced mushrooms, highlights his commitment to sustainability and community. These dishes are not just meals; they are a celebration of Singapore’s rich culinary tapestry.

Drinks at Pastaro are equally thoughtful. Low, a certified sake sommelier, has curated a selection that complements the food perfectly. The Yaegaki x Willin Low sake, with its fruity notes, is designed to enhance the flavors of spicy dishes. This attention to detail extends to the sides as well, with elevated versions of local favorites like Har Jeong Fritter and Charred Napa Cabbage.

As Pastaro opens its doors, it does so with a sense of nostalgia and excitement. Low’s journey has been one of reinvention, and this new chapter is no different. The first paying customer, a familiar face from the local music scene, remarked on the restaurant’s Tokyo-like vibe, a testament to Low’s vision of creating a space that feels both familiar and fresh.

In a world where many chefs are quick to chase trends, Low stands firm in his belief that food should tell a story. Pastaro is not just a restaurant; it’s a narrative of resilience, creativity, and the enduring bonds of teamwork. As diners flock to this new eatery, they are not just savoring a meal; they are partaking in a culinary journey that transcends borders and traditions.

In conclusion, Willin Low’s Pastaro is a beacon of hope in the ever-evolving culinary landscape of Singapore. It is a reminder that even in the face of adversity, creativity can flourish. As the doors of Pastaro swing open, they invite everyone to step inside and experience a slice of culinary magic. This is more than just pasta; it’s a celebration of life, love, and the relentless pursuit of passion.