Luxury Brands in Turmoil: Kering and Burberry Face Crossroads** **

July 26, 2024, 7:33 am
Financial Times
Financial Times
AdTechAnalyticsBusinessFinTechITNewsPagePersonalPlatformProduct
Location: United Kingdom, England, City of London
Employees: 11-50
Founded date: 1888
**
The luxury fashion landscape is shifting. Kering, the powerhouse behind Gucci and Saint Laurent, is grappling with a significant downturn. Meanwhile, Burberry, the iconic British brand, is on the hunt for a revival under new leadership. Both companies are at a crossroads, navigating a stormy sea of changing consumer preferences and economic pressures.

Kering recently issued a stark warning. Its operating income could plummet by 30% in the latter half of the year. This news sent shockwaves through the luxury sector. Once a titan, Kering now finds itself lagging behind competitors like LVMH and Hermès. The pandemic-era boom has faded, leaving Kering struggling to maintain its footing.

Gucci, Kering's crown jewel, is not shining as brightly as it once did. Sales have dipped nearly 20%. The brand is rolling out new lines under designer Sabato De Sarno, but the reception has been lukewarm. The once-revered label is now fighting to reclaim its allure. Saint Laurent, Kering's second-largest brand, is also feeling the heat. Sales fell 9% in the second quarter, a trend that shows no signs of reversing.

Yet, not all is bleak. Bottega Veneta reported a 4% sales increase, and the eyewear division saw a 5% rise. These pockets of growth offer a glimmer of hope amid the gloom. Kering remains committed to long-term investments in its brands, even as demand wanes. The company is determined to create conditions for a return to growth, but the path forward is fraught with challenges.

Across the English Channel, Burberry is facing its own set of trials. The brand recently appointed Joshua Schulman as its new CEO. Schulman, a retail veteran, steps into a role laden with expectations. Burberry has issued profit warnings and announced job cuts. The pressure is palpable.

Burberry's previous strategy, led by Jonathan Akeroyd, aimed to transform the brand from a heritage outerwear company into a modern luxury powerhouse. This vision, however, has backfired. The brand's attempts to pivot too quickly left it vulnerable. Consumers are tightening their belts, especially at higher price points. Burberry's chairman, Gerry Murphy, acknowledged the misstep, stating that the brand may have moved too fast for its own good.

Schulman faces a daunting task. He must revive Burberry without sacrificing its luxury essence. The brand's identity is rooted in its iconic trench coats and scarves. Schulman aims to refocus on these staples while introducing lower price points. He insists that Burberry will not become a more affordable brand, but rather, it will lean into its strengths.

The luxury market is in flux. Consumers are more discerning, and brands must adapt. Kering and Burberry are not alone in this struggle. The entire industry is feeling the pressure. Analysts are questioning the sustainability of high price points. If luxury brands cannot justify their costs, they risk alienating their customer base.

The stakes are high for both companies. Kering's decline could signal a broader trend in luxury. If the brand cannot regain its footing, it may face further challenges. Burberry, on the other hand, must prove that it can evolve without losing its heritage. The luxury market is unforgiving. Brands that fail to adapt may find themselves left behind.

Investors are watching closely. Burberry's stock has languished, far below its peak. The company is now seen as a potential takeover target. If it cannot turn things around, it may become a pawn in a larger game. Kering, too, must navigate these treacherous waters. The luxury sector is a high-stakes arena, and only the nimble will survive.

In this landscape, the future is uncertain. Kering and Burberry are at pivotal moments in their histories. They must chart a course through turbulent waters. The luxury market is evolving, and these brands must evolve with it. The question remains: can they adapt in time to reclaim their places at the top?

As the luxury sector grapples with these challenges, one thing is clear: the game has changed. Brands must be agile, innovative, and in tune with their customers. The days of resting on laurels are over. Kering and Burberry must rise to the occasion or risk fading into obscurity. The luxury world is watching, and the clock is ticking.